Belay loop failure reddit. So, with all due respect, please consider moving .
Belay loop failure reddit. Atc will also fail in some cases if your seconds falls while he’s making his own clove hitch at the belay. Add a second harness, and put both biners through both belay loops. Jul 8, 2013 · Yet you belay and abseil from the belay loop. Both my harnesses (old BD Momentum, and Misty Mountain Caddy) are webbing with plastic around them, so that particular point of failure shouldn't ever be a problem. The carabiner somehow got pushed up against a hold and unclipped from the belay loop leaving the climber stranded mid-route. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. It will also feel more comfortable/less awkward when you fall on the belay loop vs the tie in points. Atc style belay device will fail in some cases when you have 2 seconds coming to the belay horizontally (traverse) if I remember correctly. It's like saying "check out this anchor i build, It has 6 bomber cams in it, no way it will fail!". If he falls and the clove hitch is not complete the carabiner will prevent the atc from blocking. A close call that I am aware of with an auto belay was due to someone's t-shirt and/or belay loop getting stuck in the carabiner gate and preventing the gate from fully closing and autolocking. This device can connect directly to the harness (or anchor for a top down belay) without a carabiner passing through the two closed loop. Single belay loop = single point of failure. , in a different forum. Since the strength of the system is its weakest link, then why do this? (Didn't a famous climber die recently because his belay loop was worn?) If the problem is the carabiner size, why not have a specialist larger carabiner for belaying/abseiling? The belay loop is the strongest part of the climbing harness, so why do so many climbers not trust it? It’s very common to see climbers backing up their belay loop with a separate piece of webbing or clipping their belay carabiner through the waist and leg tie-in points to avoid the belay loop. " "Climber 1 confused which side of the rope running from the bight clipped to her belay loop was the end tied to the second rope" Wow, great read. I would suggest that we move general discussions about this to away from the sad news to this forum. This is the whole reason for the belay loop. I've never used an auto belay, but I'd imagine your just clipping into a locking 'biner on the end of the rope. Here’s my problem, that situation is annoying at best and seems very unsafe at worst. That's what my belay device did the whole time I knew it before the fatal fall and I assume that had something to do with its failure (edited to reframe in answer of original post! thanks for giving me this space to air my grievances!) A new Grigri like device from Edelrid with an interesting extra feature or two, but one in particular that makes me nervous. Swami belts and to my understanding early harnesses didn't have belay loops, so you'd use the loop of rope you were tied into instead of a belay loop. There is only 1 reported case of a belay loop failing, and the harness visually looked like shit. The belayer's whole job is to manage slack and ensure that the belay locker is not getting unscrewed or cross-loaded. Safety in redundancy. Putting the 'biner through both the leg loop and the waist loop would tri-load the 'biner, and placing it only through the waist loop could risk a back injury. You are as good as dead. You don't need to worry about a single point of failure with the belay loop. If the belay loop is too strong to fail, why do we tie in to two separate points on the harness when we climb while the other end of the rope is secured to a single point? The carabiner is incorrectly loaded (triaxially) when you put it through the tie in points, so use the belay loop. There's only 1 rope, there's only 1 belay biner on the other end, the system is only redundant where it needs to be. This means that, in this configuration, it relies on a push button, an internal safety that won't allow it to unlock when cammed and The belay loop is the best example. Rather, things tagged as "anchor failure/error" are: "climber had set up the top-rope using hardware store webbing for the anchor system and clothesline as the belay rope. Oct 27, 2006 · Perhaps, in light of the tragic consequences of a probably belay loop failure for one of the brightest stars in our climbing community, it would be better/more respectful to carry on a discussion about belay loops, etc. The Belay loop is doubled nylon webbing to avoid it being a single point of failure. So, with all due respect, please consider moving 5 days ago · Todd Skinners failed harness - update - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. NB: If you get to the top of the belay and you have to yank the webbing to make it retract fully, tell the staff. A lot of old timers continue it out of habit because why not, it works just as well. With the plastic not being connected to anything, that would lead to wear in one spot (where gear settles on the gear loop) and eventual failure. There is still a single point of failure with the belay loop. Possible solutions would be to service the auto belay so the recoil moves with the climber, or to change the carabiner type to one that can not open against someone’s body. He did exactly this - although his biner was attached to a belay anchor and not a harness, it’s the same situation. Clip it to you belay loop. I know that there are some newer harnesses that include redundant belay loops, but it is still generally considered to strong to fail. hxjfzxriisjxwqunffsbahqgjolfjysmvpjhrivpkpmymmpreqypilz