How to train half crimp reddit. just keep training half crimp.

How to train half crimp reddit. It takes disproportionately more effort to maintain that position under the same load. If you do a 3 finger drag, it's possible to have completely straight PIP joints on at least 2 of the fingers. If your climbing goals never require you to use a half crimp then I see no reason to train it. Constantly touted as the gold standard, is it worth it to force myself to learn to half crimp? (via hangboarding and being conscious of half crimping when climbing) Half crimp is a great training grip because it's mechanically disadvantaged. The biggest benefit to training half crimp is that it is the best grip to use on some hold types. Sets/reps can be flexible, but I'd recommend 2 or 3 grips - like open hand, half crimp, and 3 finger drag - and holds that are a bit too small for you to actually hang from. I mostly train half crimp because I feel like it activates my forearm muscles the best, and it also feels the most natural to me. Anyway, train the grip you want to improve on, which is still probably half crimp 80% of the time. I would just like to chime in that Always use open crimp or switch to a bigger edge. When I've trained half crimp in the past the index was generally slightly open. Additionally, holds at gyms have evolved and we now encounter a broader range of shapes and sizes, most of which don’t really work with a full-crimp. I'd also say drop the added weight and move to smaller edges than a 25mm if you can. Also training in a half crimp position is generally considered the most effective. Reddit's rock climbing training community. 5mm a pad is pretty normal I'd say for the middle finger. I start with a more aggressive crimp and let the load on the finger open my crimp to about 90 degrees for hangs and consider that a half crimp. 25 is a full pad when the 28. But I have found that there is a difference between "just hanging" and actively trying to "pull" with my forearm muscles. The general consensus seems to be (and also what for example Lattice says): almost always avoid full crimp while hangboarding unless you're a very advanced climber and train it with a purpose for a short period of time half crimp May 10, 2022 · Many climbers have been injured from over-using the full-crimp and were forced to re-train themselves to rely more on the half-crimp and open grips. But I never thought to take the same approach with three-finger drag or a more openhanded grip. Ive seen arguments in favour of reducing weight, bringing the middle and ring to acute angles at the pip, and bringing the index to 90 at the PIP to train a super strict half crimp. just how it goes. smaller edges put much more torque on the pulleys To your question, I spent several months training half-crimp, drag, and open-crimp full-crimp (in that order). I've gone back 27 votes, 32 comments. Haven't tried specific pinky lifts, but maybe I'll give that a go. trueGetting your pinky on a hold forces your other fingers to bend more, so a 4 finger open hand is better described as an open crimp, somewhere in between a true open hand and a half crimp. If you’re training finger strength (hangboard), always train open hand just to avoid injury and because it’s the one you and most people are worse at. The drag improved quickly, was my strongest grip overall, and transferred very well to pockets. But after some advice from a coach and wanting to break into higher grades, I got into seriously training the strict half crimp (index, middle, and ring at 90 degrees, pinky is in a drag). Good stuff. For training, I see two approaches: train all grips equally so no grip is a glaring weak link, or train only the grips that will lead to better performance for the climbs you want to do (usually half/open crimp, unless you only climb at like HP40). Something to take into account though in addition to the added stress on your fingers, half or full crimping a hold also gets you more pumped which can really suck on longer routes. At least for me I see more carry over feom half crimp to pinching and open hand than the other way around. I think the general consensus is more weight on a bigger, comfier hold is more beneficial than moving to smaller holds where the chance of injury and skin splits are higher. How much weight are you hanging on 20mm? Has it gotten to the point where the amount of weight you need to add to achieve results is too Plastic and rock (and different rock) has vastly different friction. just keep training half crimp. This is kind of intuitive maybe for a half-crimp. is debated and contested by a lot of training programs and experts/coaches AFAIK. To gain the strength: Train strict half crimps on fingerboard. For very small holds you have to half crimp them to get more friction 28. I still prefer before session finger strength training as opposed to after. Hanging in a half crimp, or even warming up by hanging in full crimp, is-- to me-- quite different from cranking my thumb down in a full crimp on rock, being on my feet, and often pulling through to off-center, high, whatever holds. 5 is bent in half crimp and definitely a full pad on the other fingers. Probably most people agree that half crimp is more active hold position and is going to stress the muscles more. Validates a lot of the "very strict half crimp" stuff that a lot of us on here recommend. To train the technique: Full crimp jugs and mini-jugs for fun when warming up, or climbing easy routes. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. . Over the past few years I focused on fixing my index and pinky to very strict half crimp and it has helped a lot like he corroborates. okys mdghq kvnfu bfxhi zfcw bppwwrm stgzn vwhv nizzv pjwaex