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Trad climbing nuts. (You don't have to tell me how .
Trad climbing nuts. 7). Set your own price!This e-book will teach you how to: Place cams, nuts and other trad climbing gear Build trad anchors Use different belay methods (including guide mode) Equalize and extend gear effectively Understand forces on climbing gear Abseil safely (including using a prusik knot) Climb with half ropes Test rock quality Prepare for your first trad lead Plus much more Our mission is to feed the stoke for climbing by offering the most comprehensive range of equipment to climbers in Australia. However, while useful as guidelines, these acronyms could stand to go deeper into the strength side of the discussion. Traditional Routes follow Cracks and Slabs. Sep 8, 2022 · Rock climbing nuts may not provide the same level of versatile, multi-directional protection as cams, but they are still essential gear for any trad climber. Nuts Buying Guide Double Cap Read Time - 9 minutes May 2020 Standard nuts are the backbone of any traditional climbers rack. This is in contrast to sport climbing, where you rely on Oct 25, 2024 · The Alloy Offset from DMM is our review team's favorite overall nut for all-around trad climbing because of their versatility and how perfect they are where most other pieces of passive protection or cams are adequate at best. Jul 28, 2022 · The Gear You Need for Trad Climbing That’s a lot of gear! Traditional or “Trad” climbing involves placing your own protection as you climb. Jan 7, 2020 · This does mean they aren't a great nut for everyday trad climbing as their thinner cables are more prone to kinking, and the heads will get beat up quicker. Trying to master my gear placement though. Are you a beginning climber trying to put together a trad climbing rack? Climbers are asking all the time what pieces of trad gear should I purchase first? I am somwhat confused about the places of hexes in a modern trad setting. Effectively a metal wedge on a wire sling, these pieces of protection are the bread and butter of keeping climbers safe when they are trad climbing. If you’re new to trad climbing, then you want to purchase the most common sized cams and nuts to build a “go anywhere” rack. Rocks are built with durable 6064 aluminum and a stainless steel cable, ensuring decades of dependable use. Then go back to bolt clipping for a year before you get up the courage to do it all again. Trad climbing can be a huge amount of fun, but the nature of the protection makes the leader entirely responsible for his or her safety. Choose the right climbing protection gear to get your started with trad climbing. The German-Australian inventor Roland Pauligk died on January 22, 2017 after succumbing to cancer. The sling comes in different sizes to help with rope management and awkward rock protection placements. If you place gear properly and choose routes that are easy to protect, trad climbing can be just as safe as sport climbing. At these prices, double up on the mid-sizes so you can always have the right nut on hand when climbing those long pitches. Mar 8, 2017 · Passive protection devices—nuts / stoppers, hexes, and tricams— form the basis of any trad climber’s gear rack. Climb safely with nuts Nuts are an essential piece of climbing equipment for sport climbers and mountaineers who don’t want to move from bolt to bolt. When placed correctly, cams and nuts (gear used for trad climbing) are safe to fall on. Honestly, I appreciate the history of passive protection, and would like to stay passive. Before the nut there was… Climbing nutcraft evolved in Great Britain about a half century ago, but its roots go back even further. Explore a range of trad climbing nut sets and stoppers, including micro nuts, brass nuts, hexes and offset nuts. I'm running old Tango "made by Hudy Sports" nuts, and I recently realized that they are actually offset in one plane and parallel in another plane. See full list on theadventurejunkies. I have about 60 nuts and hexes going up to Camalot #3, but no cams. The bottom carabiner is coloured to help differentiate it to the top carabiner. Whatever you call them, these wedges of metal are a key element in every trad climber’s protection system. Affordable and quality climbing gear from Kouba and essential rock climbing equipment. On short gritstone and granite outcrops this may be enough when combined with wide crack protection. So I'm seeking potential burner nuts or replacement for the Trango TRADITIONAL CLIMBING, ALSO CALLED TRAD CLIMBING OR JUST “TRAD,” is a particular style of roped climbing that involves placing your own protective equipment as you move up a climb, then removing it when you’re done. In order to give you the best experience when out climbing, we've got cams in Aug 22, 2024 · These classic nuts should be the backbone of any trad climber’s rack. This video covers all the types of trad protection gear I know of, and rates them all based on personal experience. These pieces are relatively inexpensive because they feature no moving parts. A trad climber’s trad rack can be their entire collection of trad gear they’ve collected over the years. This article explains everything about using climbing nuts: placing, racking and removing them. Here’s how it is done. May 17, 2024 · What you really need to know, and buy, to start trad climbing. Recently I have started to think about the best carabiners for Sep 6, 2013 · The Tricam is a puzzling piece: It’s delightfully simple, with no active—or moving—parts, yet it has more potential uses than either a spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) or a standard nut. I have small offset nuts but what do people think about normal small nuts. Remember to check out our selection Shop for Nuts at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. Climbing nuts, also known as wires, rocks or stoppers are thin wedges of metal that are slotted into constrictions in cracks to provide protection when climbing traditionally outdoors. Apr 5, 2023 · Trad climbing is an important skill for rock climbers to have if they’re going to explore routes that aren’t fully protected with fixed gear. Aug 9, 2022 · With no moving parts (hence, “passive protection”), nuts are inexpensive, lightweight, and sturdy. Instructing, Coaching, Guiding and Approved Mountain Training Course Provider. DMM wallnut, size 3. e. But really, once you’re ready to start buying gear, your first investment ought to be a set of nuts. Most climbers carry wires of a similar size on Karabiners in lots of 5 - 10 wires Mar 22, 2021 · Yes, all the language of trad climbing is vaguely sexual, so if you haven’t cracked any jokes yet — er, go nuts. Apr 27, 2022 · This article originally appeared in Climbing in 2013. As the first form of leader placed protection was a stone pebble in a crack on Cloggy in North Wales. 4, 2, and 3 Camalots - Size 1, 2 and 3 Wild Country Friends 15 Black Diamond Nuts $650 for all or make me an offer if you want individual pieces! Nuts, Rocks and Wires are generic names for a type of leader place protection for rock climbing. Jun 4, 2025 · In trad climbing, a trad climber will carry a trad climbing rack, which can include climbing nuts and camming devices. I also run DMM offsets, I feel okay about them. In short, trad climbing, more formally known as traditional climbing, is a form of rock climbing that requires placing your own gear for protection, rather than solely relying on pre-placed bolts. Placing nuts are intuitive, they are inexpensive, and will last you a long time. Anyone who wants to do traditional rock climbing needs a few things: Free UK delivery for orders over £60 | Buy climbing equipment online from Sgùrr Shop. That’s where the 12-Point Anchor Rubric Trad climbing, often regarded as the purest form of rope climbing, demands not only physical strength but also a strategic mind and a deep understanding of rock formations. P. They are made of a flexible wire which is threaded through a hard 'nut' of metal. This will teach you far more about trad climbing strategy, placing gear and the intricacies of placements on different rock types and routes, than Nut and Hexes Ranging in size from the thickness of a matchstick to the size of your clenched fist, nuts (also called chocks, wires or stoppers) and hexes are inexpensive pieces of trad protection. The name comes from the their development. True So here's the situation. Thoughts?? What nut sets do you own? And your opinion of it. Friends Cams are reliable and essential for certain types of cracks where nuts won’t work. Nov 14, 2019 · Trad and Sport are forms of both Free Climbing and Lead Climbing Trad Climbing is an older style of climbing, focusing on adventure. But for aid, hard-to-protect free climbs, and big wall routes, they are amazing. Jan 30, 2017 · The RP, Roland Pauligk’s namesake brass nut. Narrow cracks are best protect by nuts on wire (commonly known as Wires). Traditional climbing is a form of free climbing (i. Climbing nuts exert very little outwards force on the rock, unlike cams. These I haven't been able to trad climb in a couple of weeks due to the weather (I live in Norway and it is the end of the season), and since I am constantly thinking about trad climbing. I'm a sport climber, but a couple of my climbing buddies will only do trad. They are cheap, strong, durable and relatively easy to use. - Size . 100% Satisfaction Guarantee So I’ve recently started trad climbing and have only led 2 very easy ones (5. Learn how to use nuts and hexes. As early as the 1920s, British climbers had carried pebbles in the pockets of their knickers, slotting these stones into wide spots in cracks and tying them off—with scary-looking hemp cord—for pro. May 21, 2020 · Here, we will give a short list of trad climbing essentials, and then offer our simplified buyers guide to traditional rock climbing gear. Jan 19, 2018 · Recently I have begun to delve into the world of traditional, or trad climbing. For multi-pitch trad climbing, the term “Jesus Nut” is used to describe the first, most crucial piece of gear placement, just above the belay anchor. Learn how to place trad gear, build trad anchors, climb a multi pitch, belay in guide mode and much more. They are cheap, light and durable. Celebrate your great success Congratulations! You’ve narrowly survived your first trad route. Trad Climbing Gear > Ball Nuts This 'ball nuts' article is part of the book - Trad Climbing Basics. Aug 8, 2022 · With no moving parts (hence, “passive protection”), nuts are inexpensive, lightweight, and sturdy. A minimum for beginners would be a full set from 1 - 10. Edit: Also can't deny I enjoy placing an old machine nut slung on cord, occasionally. But unlike cams, which expand into gaps in the rock and Offset Nuts My immediate group of climbing partners obsess over offset nuts. So my question is, can you climb trad with only nuts and Nov 8, 2024 · Whether you want to fine-tune gear placement, anchors, or crush your first multi-pitch, this comprehensive guide to trad climbing has it all. What is stopping be from using a nut on a horizontal for at least some pro. Apr 3, 2018 · Many climbers use a rubric to help build solid anchors. Instead of clipping bolts, you are looking for natural features, cracks, or constrictions to place traditional climbing equipment like nuts and cams. com Jul 16, 2025 · Climbing nuts are one of the first pieces of trad protection climbers will purchase. He was 79. 5 and 5. This is a pretty gear-intensive endeavor, and some of what you carry comes down to personal choice Qualified, experienced and psyched climbing and mountaineering instructor based in Snowdonia, N Wales. During the summer I bought lightweight screw carabiners by DMM, and color coded carabiners for my cams, which truly felt like a revolution for me. However, I'm a broke high schooler, so I can't really afford cams, and I don't want to get too invested in it. I climb mostly in Utah in rock canyon and Ibex with the occasional moab trip. Here’s how you develop one that will work for you. These pieces of removable protection are placed into cracks and other weaknesses in the rock, then the climber clips the rope into carabiners that are attached to these pieces of gear. A typical trad rack will contain 10-12 nuts and maybe one or two mid-size hexes. The top carabiner is loosely connected to the adjoining sling to allow for movement without dislodging the nut. Trad climbers use the term rack frequently. Jan 31, 2023 · Trad rack is a term used by climbers to describe the collection of equipment they use for trad climbing. Apr 3, 2025 · Buying used climbing gear? Here are the red flags to look for and tips for ensuring the gear you buy is safe. ? - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. May 29, 2020 · New to trad climbing? Our Beginner's Guide to Trad Climbing breaks down everything you need to know to get started trad climbing today. Sport climbing is designed to push the athletic envelope of the sport. Affordable active and passive trad gear from Kouba Climbing. From what I’ve been hearing, don’t place nuts in horizontal cracks and place cams instead. Guides and books often talk about SERENE (Secure/Solid, Efficient, Redundant, Equalized with No Extension) and ERNEST (Equalized, Redundant, No Extension, Secure/Solid, Timely). This article explains the physics of how climbing cams work, and also how to place, remove and rack them. While cams are often easier to place and clean, nuts are much cheaper and will vastly increase your total possible gear placements. A common mantra in Trad climbing is “the leader never falls. It Trad climbing 101 Learn everything you’ve ever wanted to know about trad climbing including the skills, gear, and popular destinations. Mar 22, 2021 · Yes, all the language of trad climbing is vaguely sexual, so if you haven’t cracked any jokes yet — er, go nuts. That being said, if you’re getting your first rack together Oct 28, 2016 · From cams to nuts to hexes, learn the basics of trad gear with tips for buying your first rack. Having your A beginners guide to the placement of Nuts, Rocks and Wires for protecting trad rock climbing. But if you’re new to trad climbing, how do you make sure that you’re getting the best climbing nuts? With climbing experience, you build your own personal preference. They allowed climbers to protect thin, shallow cracks and fall safely on their placements. B… What is trad climbing? What is trad gear? How do you learn trad climbing? Find out the basics about becoming a trad climber from an AMGA-certified Rock Guide. Nuts or wires, rocks or stoppers. Nuts are an essential for every trad climber. In the beginning of your trad climbing career you should focus on building a solid nut rack and learning to place them well. Apr 5, 2014 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Since trad is often learned by climbing second, you won’t need an extensive rack initially, but make sure you have a Nut Key clipped to your harness with a loop sling for removing gear. We have been climbing for a while, guiding professionally Getting into leading trad routes? Learn how to choose types of passive protection, such as chocks, nuts and hexes. Jun 6, 2021 · Top rope soloing, where you need to set an anchor to take an upward pull Clipping a Micro Traxion or Tibloc for simulclimbing You are starting out in trad climbing, have a small rack of expensive cams, and prefer to use them for lead climbing and not anchor building This “opposing two stoppers” trick is typically done with a clove hitch. Or the smaller rack they intend to bring up a specific climb. Pauligk began producing aluminum RPs in Learn to trad climb. Nuts are the staple of any trad or aid rack as they provide solid protection when placed correctly. Nuts can wiggle out, slings can lift off and cams can walk out of position. [3][4] After the lead climber Apr 24, 2023 · 8. Small meaning Black diamond 1-4 stoppers or DMM micro wallnuts. With no bolts to clip, the journey up a trad route is a three-dimensional, mentally exhausting labyrinth of challenges. I want to get some gear so I have something to contribute, as well as open up my horizons to more routes other than sport. Sep 12, 2024 · A set of 10 to 12 nuts will be sufficient for your first experiences. Most gear covers 8-12 kN or 1,798-2,698 lbs I'm still pretty new at trad climbing and I was a hex sceptic until the other day - I went climbing somewhere different to my usual haunt - a rather exposed cliff where the erosion had scooped out the most marvellous hex placements - absolutely bomber!. Learn how to place hexes; how to use them passively (like a nut) or actively so they cam into cracks. Elsewhere, most leaders would double up on wires or at least on the smaller sizes. Oct 18, 2021 · Climbing nuts are the foundation of most Trad racks and were the first pieces used in modern Trad. There are also tricams, hexes big bros, and ball nuts but they are only to be used depending on the location of the climb. We really hope you find it useful. Jan 24, 2023 · Trad climbing involves a wide array of gear, including nuts, hexes, cams, Big Bros, and more, to ensure climbers stay safe. Also see some examples of gear-racking options. That little gold wire held my first fall, and ever since, brings on good feelings on a lead. Payable by donation. Here are some things to consider: Trad Gear is Less Reliable than Sport Climbing Bolts It's generally safe to fall at any time on a bolted sport route, whether indoors or at the crag. However, if the same attitude is applied to trad climbing, you'll soon get injured. How to rack trad gear To climb efficiently on trad, you need a system to keep your rack organised. The sling holds the carabiner in Neil Gresham gives us a masterclass in the basics of placing nuts as Trad climbing protection. Aug 1, 2025 · What's an R. While they are high-grade nuts and have many positive features, they don’t quite measure up to the DMM Wallnut and Offset. And I really love them nuts. Most of the force is transferred in the direction it is being pulled (in most cases, down and slightly outwards from the rock). (You don't have to tell me how Title says it really. We have all kinds of really cool cams, and other styles of chocks/nuts/whatever. Nov 18, 2016 · The trickiest—and most important—parts of multi-pitch trad climbing are placing solid gear and building safe anchors fast. I always rack at least two. Whether you want to create an additional anchor point on a sport climbing route between widely spaced bolts or you want to completely secure your own route, you should always Aug 21, 2020 · Beginning Trad Rack: What to buy! Here is the long awaited update to one of my older blogs on buying and building a trad rack. One of my trad friends says his BD #1 stopper is his most useful one. This article teaches you how to place stoppers and cams. Initially made from actual machine nuts with the internal thread drilled out, they have undergone several stages of development in the last few decades, resulting in the wonderful colour-coded super-strong designs we have today. They’re a single piece of metal slung with a sturdy wire and feature no moving parts. Dec 15, 2023 · You can’t climb trad without a trad rack, though, and like most components of climbing gear, trad equipment is expensive, and building your first rack can seem daunting. 00, 0 and 2 Black Diamond Microcams - Size . Here's what you need to know. In Choosing Climbing Nuts, Paul offers some advice on what type to choose and how to rack them. Explore trad climbing gear and protection for your trad rack including nuts, cams, hexes and abalaks ready for your next mountain adventure or chilled day at the crag. Building your first trad rack made simple and easy. Trad climbing nuts and passive protection to build up your trad rack. Learn the skills to stay safe and have confidence when climbing. Compared to cams, they’re lighter and considerably cheaper, so it makes a lot of sense to have a good set of nuts clipped to your climbing harness, especially for longer routes. Dec 25, 2016 · Hey guys, I am a fledging trad climber. Any suggestions on what a good “starter pack” would look like as far different cam/nut sizes? and then I can experiment and add to it based on need from there. Nuts are an essential for every trad climber. May 1, 2022 · On the other hand, trad racks for lead climbing consist of quickdraws, runners and slings for clipping pro and building anchors, and an assortment of protection devices (cams, nuts, hexes, and so on), a cleaning tool, and more. Here’s what you need to know about trad gear and tips to build your first trad climbing rack. Learn about nuts, hexes, cams and other equipment you may need. A lot of gear is needed for trad climbing: cams, nuts Get tips and tricks for your first trad climbing equipment! A useful set of nuts and wires aimed at anyone building their first rack and consisting of Wallnuts 1-11, Alloy Offsets 7-11 and Torque Nuts 1-4. Jan 6, 2020 · Comparing these options, we'd say the Peenuts are a better all-around trad climbing nut, while the DMM HB Brass Offset is best for aid climbing and the tiniest, trickiest to protect traditionally protected routes. Wild Country also colour codes the nuts, making for easy size identification. no artificial or mechanical device can be used to aid progression, unlike with aid climbing), which is performed in pairs where the lead climber places removable climbing protection into the route while ascending. There are various types of nuts available by many brands in all sorts of colours, shapes and sizes. We have Learning how to place trad gear is an essential skill as you progress as a climber. Immediately yell, “Sport climbing is neither!” at anyone who will listen and start planning your next climbs: the Diamond, El Cap, Trango Tower, etc. Always seems to go in on the most engaging fun pitches. Pauligk’s handmade RPs, named for his initials, revolutionized traditional climbing in the early 1970s. Now, many different climbing brands offer a set of nuts with steel cables that fit cracks all the way from a laser-cut seam to a full on hand crack. Using nuts is a good way to secure a route that has many cracks. It's for this reason that they Quickdraws Trad quickdraws connect rock protection to the rope. Cams use a spring system that presses the jaws into the sides of the rock crack to hold their position firm. Feb 2, 2024 · Our Runner Ups for the Best Climbing Nuts for Trad Climbing While these nuts didn’t quite make the cut into the favorite’s position, they are still recommended by many trad climbers as well as having positive reviews from many experts. Their two distinct orientations include one that is offset and the other that's less tapered and more traditionally shaped, which together create a ton a versatility A large selection of nuts for a long trad route in Morrocco Nuts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. This is caused by movements in the rope as you climb Get tips on what cams, nuts and other gear to take rock climbing and how to organize it all. Specifically thinking about free climbing and understand the placements would easily blow in a whip but What are rock climbing friends? Like other climbing devices such as belays, carabiners and quickdraws, harnesses, a climbing friend or cam is also an essential safety piece used for secure holds when climbing. All of our testers love the “ scopes ” on either side of this nut. Sport climbs ascend Roofs and Vertical walls. This equipment is also called protection, or “pro,” because it protects you from hitting the ground in a fall. Knowing what gear to rack and how to rack it can create a more efficient experience when starting out. How do climbers protect a fall with our little wired pieces of metal? In this episode I cover the complete basics of nut placement and the thought process be From cams to carabiners, nuts to nut tools, there are so many options for traditional climbing gear that it’s hard to know where to begin. They can be placed passively (like a nut) or actively (like a cam), depending on the orientation and features in the rock. Ball nuts are a seldom used type of climbing gear which offer protection in thin cracks, filling the void where even the smallest cams are too big to fit. While the original unit had two placements (one passive, one active), the Nut Tools are indispensable for trad climbing, choose between the hot forged Torque or ultralight Feather. My question is, if I’ve used all my cams earlier on a climb. They are weaker than brassies but a different shape. Honourable mentions to the smaller blue offset, and the red six. Are they really that good? Is this obsession just my immediate environment or is it because offset nuts are really that great? Free UK delivery for orders over £60 | Buy trad gear online from Sgùrr Shop. Very overwhelmed on where to start. Nuts, cams, and slings are commonly used trad climbing protection. This will teach you far more about trad climbing strategy, placing gear and the intricacies of placements on different rock types and routes, than Nuts Buying Guide Double Cap Read Time - 9 minutes May 2020 Standard nuts are the backbone of any traditional climbers rack. Trad climbing is adventurous. Trad vs sport climbing: The two types of free climbing, do you know the difference between them? Find out here! Climber leading a traditional climbing route, attempting to insert a nut for climbing protection. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. Learn how to place, remove and rack climbing hexes. ” Though it is ideal not to fall, the mantra may make you wonder how safe falling on gear actually is. Trad uses removable protection like cams, nuts, and Learn how to place climbing cams. Jan 22, 2010 · When I first started trad climbing all I could afford were nuts, hexes, and tricams. I think ballnuts are cool when you can place them, while nuts are my go-to Pyramid Volume | Textured Volume for Rock Climbing and Bouldering Holds | Ideal for Adding New Dimensions to a Climbing Wall | 13 Industrial T-Nuts and 6 Screws Included Been trad climbing with some buddies for a while now and ready to commit and buy my own rack. Can anyone tell me how to safely build a trad anchor out of only passive pro? I am assuming that only placing the nuts downward would be awful during a hard catch. What do you like about hexes? What are your favorite hexes? What features do you look for? I am interested in them and want to learn from people with experience (and no one I know is into them or uses them). Up until about a month ago I had to borrow other people's gear if I wanted to use cams. This certainly would give you sufficient trad gear with the addition of slings, karabiners and quickdraws to lead many lower grade routes, without the addition of expensive cams. Apr 14, 2021 · So, looking at these estimates above, we are looking at $745 for a basic trad climbing rack with a set of nuts, a handful of the most used cams, a safe number of alpine draws and some equipment to build anchors and a nut tool. Trad Climbing Essential Gear: A climbing harness filled up with trad climbing gear, including nuts, cams, locking carabiners and slings. Whether you’re looking for technical climbing gear or friendly, expert advice, we’ll have what you need. tofcmkssupbuhftkhrqiysmudtasgrltrskxifqkxhaovh